Reflections of an EBC trekker

Thank you, gang, for an amazing time.

It’s been about two months since coming home from Nepal. I can hardly believe it’s been that long, but then again, when I think about it, two months isn’t all that long.

Every day, I think about the trip. It was such an amazing opportunity—one that I am so grateful for being able to experience.

Upon returning home, I returned to work immediately. The kids were excited to see me and I them. I felt like I was sort of in a daze the whole day…actually, I felt that way for quite some time after the trip. The trip was just so magical, it’s hard to convey how special it was with words.

I did see a doctor about my knee and she agreed with the doctor in Nepal: a sprained knee. It has started to pop a bit and will seize up on occasion, but I’m sure with some time and careful attention, the knee will be as good as new soon.

I still have the red threads that I received from the two Lamas, but I had to take the one from the high ranking lama off because it was way too twisted. However, I still wear the one from Lama Geshe. I find myself fingering it throughout the day. For some crazy reason, it brings me calmness and a sense of relief. The prayer flags I purchased at the Sherpa Museum are hung up outside my window. And even though my mother compares them to a line of drying clothes, I smile when they flit and flutter in the wind. My Thangka painting will soon be framed and hung on my wall so I can see it daily. I have two kata scarves on my door.

Emails between the group members come through weekly. I can always hear their voices through the typed words. In fact, I’ve read one or two while in class and my students gave me the “she’s-being-weird” look when I laughed out loud. Thanksgiving wishes, Christmas wishes, New Year’s Eve wishes, and birthday wishes have all passed through. A week ago, I met Thomas and Alain in Orlando (not too far from where I live). We ended up at a restaurant in the Sheraton. The food was wonderful, but the company even better. We talked and reminisced for hours. At the end of the evening, I think we were each sad to say goodbye, aware that we didn’t know when we’ll meet again.

EBC Mini Reunion
Alain, Thomas, and Me

I miss my fellow trekking members. It is sort of like mourning a loss. You spend a short amount of time with these people, but they are the only ones that can truly understand where you have been. No one at home will ever understand what you have gone through or experienced. Each one added value to my life in some way. Alain—always smiling and exuberant, no matter what he stepped in. Tomas—he was the most into the trip, with his head in the game no matter what. Dave—with his positive attitude and kind soul. Matt—the most prepared person to ever walk across the Himalayas. Thomas—one who always spoke his mind. Erik—always trying to make me feel better for being last. Pops—surpassed us all on the trail and was an inspiration. Christopher—the true definition of a gentleman. Yakman—a kid that wanted to be part of it all. Francois—a quiet strength on the trek. Eisha—a young woman full of grace and joy. Tanya—a motherly figure that took care of us, always wanting to make sure we were okay. Ann-Marie—an intelligent person, friends with everyone. Tiffany—someone still searching for her own happiness, but will get there eventually if she just lets go. And then there are all the Sherpas who taught me patience and that it is okay to go slower. I just need to accept this.

Of course there is Amy and Mingma. Words cannot fully express the gratefulness I feel towards these two extraordinary souls. When I think about the trip and all they did for me, my heart clenches and my eyes get a little misty. I pray we see each other again.

As far as my next trip? I don’t know. I’ve thought about going for the fourth Tusker patch and signing up for Bhutan in 2015 (it’ll take a few years for the wallet to bounce back). Maybe Antarctica? Iceland? I am not sure at this point, but I’m open to suggestions!

The Final Chapter…Goodbye, Nepal

All is Right with the World…Together Again!
11/17

It’s been pretty quiet around here without the rest of the group. I’m not 100% I enjoy the solitude. They really are a special group. I almost with I had been able to keep up with them so I could have gotten to know each of them a bit better. Oh well, what will be will be, right?

I woke up at 8:30am which is really sleeping in around these parts. Danu did knock on my door right at 8:30 with some hot water to drink and he even managed to get some water for a quick wash up. I ordered my breakfast and he said he’d be back to pick me up (nor sure if he thought I was going to get lost or what), but I walked down there myself. I saw him a few minutes later rush through the gathering room in a panic. I think he thought he lost me! I finally caught his eye and I’m pretty sure he gave a sigh of relief.

After breakfast, we set off on another hike. He told me it would be good for my knee—likely story. We walked up a hill, up behind the lodge, and towards the new hospital. Then we came back to the lodge and kept on walking. We walked around the entire airport. It really is a short runway! I can’t believe we’ve landed on that thing and lived to tell about it. During our hike, Danu carried my water bottle for me (such a gentleman). I was also able to get some video of a plane landing and taking off on that miniscule landing strip. My knee was acceptable during most of the walk but afterwards it was pretty sore.

My “exercise” hike with Danu

As we walked, I asked Danu about his family. Come to find out, he is in his mid-thirties (around my age), married, and father to two kids (a 7 year old and a baby). He has two sisters—he’s in the middle. When we got back to the courtyard of the lodge, I showed him some pictures on my phone of my family, dogs, and trips to Mongolia and Africa. He then showed me pictures on his phone from a trek to Mansulu (another trek in Nepal that he works on). When we were done with sharing, he gave me a menu for me to order some lunch. I ordered and he gave me a weird look before asking, “Are you sure?” The food was good so I’m not sure why the look.

I took a short nap after lunch. When the clock hit 2:45, I went downstairs with my journal so I could be there when the group arrived. I wasn’t there for 10 minutes soaking up the sun before I heard the clinging and clanging of the yak bells. It was a welcomed sound (I love the bells except for when I’m on a horse!). Cami showed up and walked right by. Then they came in…the group! It felt right being back with them. I can’t explain it, but the trek was much more fun because of the variety of personalities on it.

Mingma, Amy, and Erik hiking from Monjo to Lukla to join me

The group, of course, was loud but looked pretty beat. The trek was mostly uphill for them and I could tell they were happy to be at the lodge finally. The boys—Yakman, Alain, and Thomas—got some beers for everyone. It was appropriately named Everest. I took a few sips just to say I had some, but I’m not really a beer drinker so the taste was lost on me.

Alain and Yakman toasting with Everest beer.

We did the “Circle” tonight where we got in a circle with all of the Tusker workers. We each had an envelope or two to hand out. Before commencing with the “Tip Handing Ceremony”, Thomas gave a wonderful speech, thanking each member of the Sherpa team. After all, had it not been for the dedication and hard work of each member, none of us would have had the experience we did. Eisha then sang a beautiful rendition of “Lean on Me”. As far as tips, I had Danu—I requested him because he had been such a good babysitter and companion, it was the least I could do.

A Fond Farewell
11/18

We made it to the hotel today. But again, it was a long day. We woke up early for the first flight out, but that didn’t mean an early flight! At breakfast, Mingma and our Sherpas offered us katas (my third!). We were allowed to stay at the lodge while we waited for the word that would tell us our plane would soon be arriving in Lukla.

I was quiet this morning. I’ll be honest, I’m not 100% sure how I feel about all of it. Maybe by the time I get back to “reality” or home, I’ll be able to put some of this into words.

Finally the call came and we were ushered across the cobblestone path to the airport. I was called to place my yellow duffel onto the table for Security to search it. Well, it wasn’t really a search. I unzipped the stupid bag so the women officer would have easier access for searching, but she just asked me questions. After a couple of minutes, I was free to zip it back up and the bag was tossed behind them. Next came the security checkpoint I had to get through in order to move onto the “lounge”. This security checkpoint was interesting. I placed my daypack onto the table in front of the man. He asked me one question. I guess I passed the test because I was asked to go through the metal detector. Once I was through, he gave me my bag back. We waited for maybe a half hour to forty-five minutes. We watched a couple of planes land, commenting on the faces getting off them…faces full of excitement for what they would encounter over the next couple of weeks. It was hard to believe that two and a half weeks prior, those faces were ours.

The flight was easy, far less scary than when we were headed to Lukla. Upon landing in Kathmandu, we were quickly returned to our hotel, Shangri-La. I was excited about having an actual hot shower and getting a haircut at the hotel’s salon—I promised mom I’d have it chopped off after this trip and I thought this would be a nice surprise for her. Other members of the team were booking massages and treatments at the spa. We only had a couple of hours before our ride arrived to carry us to the celebration dinner. Before I could do anything, though, I had to go the local clinic to have the knee checked out.

Erik and Mingma were the chosen ones to escort me to the local clinic. It was about a 20 minute walk from the hotel. A British woman sat behind the desk and she seemed a bit scattered brain to me. A few people were waiting to be seen…travelers passing through the city, hikers, and me. As I waited, I tried reading however I was easily distracted by the comings and goings of the place. I saw two men—hikers I’m thinking—leaving with huge bandages wrapped around their hands and toes. I’m assuming some kind of frostbite? Mingma fell asleep, his head nodding down (no snoring). Erik read every magazine they had in the waiting room. Finally, a doctor called me back. The diagnosis? Just a sprained knee. He wanted me to come back in a couple of days, but my flight leaves tomorrow so I convinced him to just give me a letter for the insurance company and that I would go see a doctor once I got home. After waiting at the clinic for over an hour, we were free to go. Once on the main drag, Mingma pointed Erik and I in the right direction to the hotel and said he would see us later that night for dinner.

At the hotel, I immediately jumped in the shower and scrubbed the dirt off me. God, it felt so refreshing to clean up and put on clean clothes that didn’t smell of sweat and grime. Afterwards, I went to the salon. I had eight inches cut off. It felt great! Thomas was also in their having his hair taken care of…he had the women in there cracking up!

Our celebration dinner at Chez Caroline.

Dinner tonight was at a French restaurant. We sat outside at a large rectangular table with two space heaters near us (the temperature was in the 50’s—comfortable after the temps we had just come from). I sat next to Dave (one of the most polite men on the trip) and Ann-Marie. After ordering and having glasses of wine poured, Amy handed out Tusker patches to each of us. I already have the Tusker patches for Kilimanjaro and Mongolia, but now I can have the EBC patch sewn onto my “expedition” jacket…there’s just one more Tusker patch I need to acquire (Bhutan) and it’s a little early to be thinking about the next trip. Then Mingma handed out yak herding hats to the men and beautiful earrings to the ladies. I love my earrings and I will always cherish them. Several toasts were given throughout dinner and soon we were taken back to the hotel for our last night at Shangri-La.

The earrings from Mingma.

Tomorrow, most of us leave (Ann-Marie and Tanya will be staying on in Kathmandu for a few more days). Pops, Yakman, and Eisha will be the first to leave at 10am…I’ll be next at around 3pm. Around 8pm, the rest of the team will depart for the airport. It is Election Day in Nepal tomorrow and that comes with some consequences. No vehicles will be allowed on the roads except for military vehicles and buses shuttling tourists back and forth to the airport. Shops will also be closed.

I don’t want tomorrow to come. I want this feeling of contentment to last forever. I want to stay with most of these people. I will miss this…

Fly Away Home
11/19

I left Kathmandu today. No. I really don’t want to talk about it.

This morning, for the last time, we all met downstairs for breakfast. Afterwards, a couple of members went on to the spa while the rest of us hung out downstairs for the first group to be picked up. The van soon pulled up to take Pops, Yakman, and Eisha to the airport. Those of us that remained in the lobby to say goodbye, offered hugs and waved the van away. My heart fluttered as it knew that I would be the next one off.

To kill some time, I walked to the small shop on the hotel grounds. I wanted to pick up some additional gifts for people and the shop offered all sort of wonderful goodies. I purchased a beautiful purse (it maybe costs $20) and some pouches. I walked upstairs, with a lady following me, to view what they had. Along the staircase, an elaborate Thangka painting hung. Thangka is a traditional Nepalese scroll painting. It can take months or years to finish the intricate detail on one. I asked about the price of that particular one but it was way out of my budget so I asked if there was one with a lower price tag. The lady took me to a place upstairs with numerous Thangkas. She took one and showed me, quoting a price of $150US. It was breathtaking…with purples and gold.

The Thangka I purchased in Kathmandu.

My Thangka

I was starting to get hungry but I didn’t want to risk crossing the street to the Vietnamese restaurant and missing my 2pm ride to the airport (Mingma informed me the time had changed) since it was already 12:30pm. I didn’t know when I’d be able to eat again so I turned to the hotel restaurant; Tiffany and Francois joined me. I wasn’t there for twenty minutes (I had already ordered too!) when Mingma showed up telling me my shuttle was already there. It was like a punch in the gut! I hugged Tiffany and Francois goodbye, assuring Tiffany we would stay in touch.

Mingma walked me down the hall to the lobby, where, sure enough, the shuttle waited. Everyone else was across the street eating so no one was able to see me off. It was probably a good thing because I could feel myself getting a little emotional. I hugged Mingma tight and climbed into the van, sitting in the far back, feeling my eyes water. Mingma called Amy (who was at the spa) to let her know I was leaving. She came quickly to say bye. She asked me if I was sad. I wasn’t sad, but I told her that leaving this trip has made me quite emotional, more than I thought it would. I’m never emotional. Sure, I can be sensitive, but I can usually keep my emotions in check. Not over this. Last night, she told me my experience on this trip had been different than others…including Karyn’s experience (I met Karyn in Mongolia and she had been to EBC the year previously). My chest hurt from leaving. Tears were rolling down my cheeks as I thanked her for everything. I kept telling myself to suck it up and stop crying, but like usual, I didn’t listen. The door to the van closed and I gave one last wave, unsure if I would see either again.

And that was that. The end of EBC.

A hop, skip, and helicopter ride and I’m in Lukla!

Early morning in Namche

Lukla
11/16/13

So, I took my first helicopter ride today. And, unlike the Himalaya horse ride, I wouldn’t mind riding in another one. The ride cost $1,000US. This trip is starting to cost more than I anticipated, but thankfully I have wonderful parents who fronted the money to me to help me out. Hopefully the insurance company will reimburse me and I’ll be able to pay my parents back.
Before starting the helicopter ride, though, I had to eat breakfast. The guys out did themselves this morning! Each plate was given to us already prepared so the guys didn’t serve us as was the norm. Once we got our plates, we knew why protocol was changed: our breakfast was served in the shape of a smiley face! Well, it certainly brought a smile to my face!

A Happy Breakfast!

After we had our fill, the majority of the group took off for some morning shopping. They wouldn’t be heading to Monjo until after lunch. I, however, would not be shopping. Instead, I waited at the lodge until we were given word my helicopter would be coming soon. Before he left, however, Jagdeep (or Pops as we all call him now) came over to assure me all would be well and I was making the right decision. We joked about him joining me since he came down with a cold of some sort yesterday. But Pops is a beast and would outlast any of us if he had too. He said they’d all see me in Lukla.

Picture of Pops~Always a gentleman

Tiffany, my roommate, clearly missed me.

Amy and I also a few minutes to talk before she took off for the shops. She told me how proud she was of me, and though I am sure she says that to a lot of her clients, it meant a lot to me that she would say it. She meets so many people on these trips and in her everyday life, I find it hard for me to stand out in any certain way…other than the chick with the autoimmune disease that needs extra attention and help on the trail…oh, and needs a horse and helicopter for a ride to Lukla! Anyway, she says she could tell I was getting stronger every day; and, she truly believes that one day I’ll go to the doctor and he’ll tell me that he sees no signs of this stupid disease (okay, I added the adjective!), Sjogren’s. It was a beautiful moment with Amy and one I’ll treasure for a long time.

We finally got a call from the helicopter company. It was time for me to hike to the pad. Now, days ago when we were here the first time, I took a picture of the heli pad without knowing I’d be using it. I guess I didn’t realize at the moment that I would have to hike up to it. Takar took my yellow Tusker duffel with all my gear while Danu took his own stuff and my daypack. Mingma helped me up the incline.

Well, like all things in Nepal, the helicopter company ran on their own time and we had to wait at the stone pad. Mingma took a picture of me on the heli pad (I didn’t mind capturing this memory on film, unlike riding the devil horse) and then we sat and waited. Takar went back to the lodge while Danu waited with us. He would be accompanying me on the ride, I learned. The plan is for him to stay with me in Lukla while we wait for the team to join us. I’m glad I won’t be by myself! Mingma and I also shared a few laughs. And like Alain had told me a couple of days ago in Tengboche after I arrived, Mingma also told me he wasn’t sure if I’d make it to base camp after the first day or so since I struggled so much. He went onto tell me how proud he was of me. I guess I surprised everyone by making it to Everest Base Camp, including myself!

Waiting for my ride

The helicopter finally swooped down onto the pad, I was ushered in as our bags were stowed next to me on the back seat. Danu squeezed in and we were off. It wasn’t his first time on a heli and I told him just be prepared because it was my first time and I may have to hold his hand (I didn’t). He pointed out Monjo from the sky and even showed me the red roof of the lodge the gang would be sleeping in for the night. I could feel the wind toss the heli a bit, but overall I felt safe. It was pretty cool flying between the ridges of the mountains, I’ll confess.

After 20 minutes in the air, we landed in Lukla and were met by the station manager wearing a Tusker cap. He grabbed my yellow duffel as Danu took the daypack and his own gear. We walked up and up and up, around the airport (I got a great view of the entire runway), down a little, and into the lodge we ate lunch at the first day we began the trek. I opted to sit in the sunny courtyard as Danu got us settled in. I met a couple of Australians that had just finished a month-long hike through some gnarly conditions (snow galore). We got talking and they offered me a biscuit from the bakery at the lodge. I kindly accepted and we began talking about the trip I took in June to Mongolia. It was a nice conversation and made me feel like a real explorer and adventurer. Soon, Danu showed me into the dining hall and I had some lunch before he decided I needed to take an afternoon hike. Yes. I was sent to Lukla by heli because I hurt my knee and now I was to take a hike. I’ve learned that when a Sherpa says a “simple” hike that he still means the hike will be up and then down, and up and down, and up and down. I was looking forward to it (please read the previous sentence with a hint of sarcasm). I ran up to my room (it had a gorgeous view of some mountains) and grabbed a water bottle, camera, and my shopping list; I was hoping I could convince Danu to help me get my shopping done and check off everyone on my list. We walked through town, passing tons of mules, chickens, and locals. We made it to the edge of town and he wanted to continue down a hill. Again, what goes down must come back up so I politely declined and whipped out my shopping list. Danu cringed but agreed to help. He would point out a shop to try and we’d go in. I’d pick something out or ask him to find out the price of something for me. He would then bargain for me, getting me a great deal. He even carried my bags for me. When we got back to the lodge, Danu told me he would pick me back up at 6:30 for dinner. Right at 6:30, I heard a knock on my door and he escorted me to the dining hall and directed me to an empty seat since the lodge was packed!

Tomorrow, I have a wake-up call (sans hot cocoa and hot washing water) at 8:30—originally, Danu went for an earlier time, however I was able to convince him (with my awesome skills) to let us sleep in. For now, I’m sitting in my quiet room, about to turn off the lights and call it a night. It’s weird to be sleeping by myself in this room after having a roommate for more than a week. I miss the shenanigans of the group, but I would be lying if I said I didn’t enjoy some of the peace of being solo.

It just wasn’t the same without me….Right, fellas? (Thomas, please note that you are in this photo.)

Alain and Thomas on the trail that I flew over. (Again, Thomas, you’re in this photo, too.)

Walk vs Ride: The horse ride from Hell

Night in Namche (Please note that this photo was shared by another trekker)

Namche Bazaar
November 15, 2013

Allow me to begin by vowing to never ride a horse in the Himalayas again. Yes, I’m aware it sounds completely exciting and adventurous at first, but the moment you get on the back of a horse like the one I had the displeasure of riding today you will find yourself questioning the idea.

I woke up, gave Mingma the money for the horse ($150US), and watched the rest of the team hike off after breakfast. Shortly afterwards, an older gentleman pulled a horse up to a short stone wall. The horse didn’t look happy. Mingma directed me onto the wall and I swung my leg over. It wasn’t too comfortable but at least I wasn’t walking on my knee. The horse neighed as her bell (all the animals wear bells to warn trekkers they are coming) rang when we “took off”. Mingma told me Cami would follow me and carry my pack for me. If there was anything I needed, I was to tell him. I was also instructed on how to properly hold the saddle. When we went up, I was to hold the front of the saddle (a simple English one) and lean forward. Going down meant I needed to hold onto the back of the saddle and lean back.

After five feet, we started to descend. It wasn’t long before I passed the group on the trail. They all laughed and waved. I thought it was fun too until the stupid horse slipped a little while walking on the edge of the trail. My heart dropped and I think it may have stopped for a minute. Alain took a couple of photos as we passed.

Coming on horseback

And going on horseback

The trail went up and then went down. I held on for dear life the entire time (I didn’t want to fall off the horse) so I have no pictures of the actual trail. My fellow trekkers, though, took some pictures along the way while they were together so I do have those pictures to share of the route. When coming to a steep part, going up or down, the horse often stopped. I felt the same way—I wish we could just stop and be done with the ride, but I rented the horse for the entire day and I was going to get my money’s worth.

An example of the path we took today

Cami asked me if I wanted him to take a picture of me on the horse. I declined and told him I really didn’t want to remember this. We arrived at our lunch spot about an hour before the others. I sat outside in the lodge’s courtyard and sipped on tea as I waited. I was also able to pull out my book and read for a bit. I’m not sure if I mentioned the book I’m reading, but it’s called “Touching My Father’s Soul” by Jamling Tenzing Norgay. His father was the Sherpa that summited Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary. He was asked by David Breashears to come along when he filmed the IMAX film Everest. The book discusses the season on Everest (one of the worst on record). Amy recommended the book to me. She told me to bring it with me on this hike. I know why now. Norgay talks about some of the places we have been so it is an enjoyable read.

I finally heard the group coming up the trail. I was so glad to hear and see them! We were ushered upstairs to the lodge’s gathering room. As we ate, we could hear the horse’s loud neighs, or protests as I like to think of them. Then Amy was able to persuade Eisha to sing a song. She sang Adele’s “Someone Like You”. I had no idea she could sing like that but it was absolutely beautiful. Her voice rivaled that of Adele’s.

Lunch Break = Break from Demon Horse

Soon it was time to say goodbye to the group, but first I had to get on the horse. I was shown to another stone wall but the horse refused to get close enough for me to swing my leg. The old man didn’t really understand but Mingma tried to turn the horse around and come back to the wall closer. It refused. Alain tried pushing the horse to the wall and I was able to eventually get on. When the horse was let go, she neighed and side stepped and sort of bucked up. Luckily I didn’t have that much longer left on the beast.

Along the way, we passed some trekkers. I told them walking was the way to go, not horse riding. We crossed a suspension bridge. I’ve heard people talk about how nerve racking it could be but imagine going across one on a horse! If I fell off the horse I’d be a goner for sure. The horse, again, stopped and would have to be pulled. I often found myself hyperventilating because the horse just loved walking on the edge. Cami would ask me if I was okay and I’d nod my head. I finally asked him if he could ask the old man to guide the horse away from the edge. Cami asked him but the horse didn’t really care for the request. We passed our yaks on the way. That wasn’t fun. The man kept trying to pass the yaks on the narrow path but a yak would get in the way. Eventually, he was able to get around but not before scaring the crap out of me yet again.

I could tell we were getting closer to Namche because I recognized the Sherpa Museum as we passed it. I sighed with relief as I saw us near the lodge…until Cami turned one way the old man kept walking. He said he was going around the monastery—it was an easier route for the horse (at this point though, it didn’t matter). Then he still kept going pass the lodge and Cami told him he needed to turn the horse around. Well, common sense would suggest one turn the horse around on a wide area, but nope. Not here! The horse was turned around on the stairs. The narrow stairs. I closed my eyes as the man turned the horse around. Finally, I could get off the horse. My knee was killing me but I was happy to be off that beast.

A view of our lodge from afar

I was able to take a shower after getting to my room. I needed it and I know from our previous stay that their showers were pretty good compared to the other lodges. The water was hot and wonderful. I was able to borrow some shampoo from Tanya (bless her) and wash my hair. It was wonderful. Tiffany was also taken to the clinic by Amy because of her cough. You could tell she wasn’t up to par at lunch today. She was given some medicine and should start feeling better in a few days.

At dinner, I told Amy to look into a helicopter for the remainder of the way. I’m upset about the whole thing. I wanted to finish this trek on my own but I don’t want to hurt my knee any worse. I called dad and told him. I didn’t want to call mom or dad before now because I didn’t want to worry them anymore than I needed to. Dad told me I should be proud of the progress I’ve made and I should be proud I reached my goal of getting to EBC. I felt better after talking to him. It will be my first helicopter ride, but I’m sure it’ll be fine. Helicopters are pretty common up here from what I’ve seen. I’ll fly from here to Lukla and spend the night tomorrow night while the team hikes to Monjo and stay there. They’ll meet me in Lukla the following day. I’m not sure what I’ll do on my own in Lukla, but it should be okay. Perhaps I’ll get some souvenir shopping done!

Resting in Namche at the lodge

A hike, a sore knee, and a blessing

Dingboche to Pangboche to Tengboche
November 14, 2013

Yeah, I don’t think I’ll be walking tomorrow. My knee is much worse. I’ll get to that later though. First, I want to tell you about one of the most amazing experiences we had today.

We left Dingboche this morning, saying goodbye to Mingma’s parents. Mingma’s mom offered us all katas as we departed, wishing us wonderful blessings as we went.

The group with Mingma’s parents

For lunch, we stopped at the town of Pangboche. After eating, we headed to the oldest monastery in this region. It was beautiful. The colors remained vibrant and the moment you enter the monastery you could feel history oozing from the intricate carvings and masks.

Pangboche Monastery

Pangboche Monastery

But even as we left the monastery, our experience in Pangboche wasn’t over. Mingma told us we would be visiting Lama Geshe, a very intelligent gentleman, a Ph. D., and an authority on Buddhism. Mingma told us, if we would like, we could offer our kata scarves with an offering and he would give us an offering in return. We all leapt at the chance. Someone helped me fold my kata and I placed some rupees in it. I entered the receiving room where Lama Geshe sat with a huge (and genuine) smile on his cheery face. He accepted it, tossed the money to the side, placed the kata scarf around my neck, and then took a red thread and tied it around my neck. As he placed the red thread around my neck, he pulled down on the knot allowing us to bump foreheads. I’ll admit I chucked because the other lama had not done that. But this guy took his time, never rushing us through. In the short time we met with Lama Geshe, I could feel his warmth and spirit. He truly wanted to teach us and answered questions (translation by Mingma of course). He even passed around scripts that were over 600 years old (I held them gently and quickly passed them to my neighbor). Before leaving his company, he gave us bookmarks with a blessing he wrote on it. It reads, “Om Ma Ni Pad Me Hung Hri”.
The translation:
Give Up all intentions to harm others from your heart.
And do your best to Benefit them all.
If each and everyone feels the Universal Responsibility to do so,
We will all enjoy the feast of Peace.
The experience is just one I will never forget. It made me realize how lucky I am to have been able to do this trip, that my disease didn’t stop me from this moment, that I am able to share this trip with my kids—kids that may have never realized that they can see the world until hearing about this trip. I know my words are choppy and far from eloquent right now so please forgive me, but the adventure and everything I’ve encountered thus far on this trip has caused me to see things differently these days.

Lama Geshe

Okay, back to the hike. Yeah, the hike after our visit to Lama Geshe definitely got more difficult. Luckily, Nima once again carried my pack (he’ll probably be glad when he doesn’t have to do that anymore!). I mean, the last mile or two (after passing Dewoche) was almost too strenuous and ridiculous! It was one of the steepest hikes up. I eventually stopped and turned to Eric. I told him to find me a yak I could impale myself with. Now, walking on relatively flat ground was okay for my knee. Going up hurt. Going downhill hurt worse, I’ll admit. But I thought I was going to die on that hike up. I’m pretty sure Mingma finally grabbed my hand and pulled me the last half hour up the hill. I knew I had no choice but to go up…where else would I go? Well, I suppose I could have stayed at the nunnery.

Amy telling me to keep moving (just one of the million times she told me to)

Later tonight, after dinner, I’ll be calling my insurance company to ask about their policy regarding international helicopter evacuation. I’ll try a horse tomorrow (if it’s possible) because I don’t think I’ll be able to continue on my knee like I have. I really don’t want to have lasting damage and never be able to hike like this again. I mean, this experience in the Himalayas has been spectacular and I don’t want this to be my last time hiking this grand mountain range. I almost fear I’ve torn my meniscus—no, I’m not a doctor, but it feels like how my mom described her knee when she tore her meniscus. I’ll keep my fingers crossed that it’s just a sprain and easily fixed with some rest.

After I did arrive at our lodge, I plopped down next to Alain. He leaned over and asked me about the knee. He told me he wasn’t sure I’d make it to base camp when we first started this trek. The first couple of days were difficult for me. I’m sure some people would have been offended by this but not me. I smiled and told him I questioned whether or not I was going to make it at first too. But I told him I’m a very determined and stubborn person and that’s what got me there. I think I showed a few people to never underestimate the underdog.

Dinner in Tengboche (I’m at the far end discussing my options)

The beginning of the end…Dingboche

November 13, 2013
Our morning started off with some sad news. Christopher had a rough night last night. He woke up dehydrated and informed Amy and Eric this morning. After a consultation, it was decided that he would be evacuated by helicopter. We were all upset to see him go. During this trip, he has been such a strong force and someone to admire (he is 75 years old and such a wonderful conversationalist…he understood the need to explore…he “got” it). He’ll be greatly missed. But as we say goodbye to him, we are able to say hello to Ann-Marie again today.

We say goodbye to Christopher

Well, we started our “descent” today, and to be honest, I can’t help but feel a little sad about it all. In a week’s time, I’ll be heading home…saying goodbye to this cast of characters I’ve come to know as family. I’m trying not to think about this, but the moment I push it out of my head, the thought seeps back in.

We left the altitude of Gorek Shep after Alain, Eric, Atman (or should I say Yakman?), Cami (Sherpa), and Mingma returned from hiking to the top of Kala Patar. They had gotten up at 4 am to summit and made it back to the lodge at 8ish. I could tell they were tired and I did not envy the men for having done it. More power to them. Then we began our hike to Lobuche for some lunch…where Alain fell asleep.

The lesson here: don’t fall asleep while surrounded by troublemakers.

Amy and me on the way to Dingboche

The hike to Dingboche was not too bad…except for the excruciating knee pain. As the day progressed, it just got worse and worse. I actually started off the hike in the front part of the group—a rarity—but as the day went on and the pain grew I had to hobble towards the back. At some point, I thought I would cry. About an hour away from the lodge we were staying at, Amy could see how I was struggling physically with the pain so she had Nima (poor guy) carry my pack for the rest of the way. I relied heavily on my trekking poles but they can’t only do so much. Eventually we made it to the lodge and I was able to rest. The funny thing about this lodge is that the gathering room is upstairs on one side of the courtyard and in order to get to our room, we had to go down those stairs, go across the courtyard, then up another set of stairs. It felt great on my knee.

Mingma with his parents at their lodge in Dingboche

The lodge we’re staying in tonight is actually owned by Mingma’s parents. Scattered in the gathering room is pictures of Mingma and his family. The lodge offered a feeling of coziness and love. Well, I can’t say our room’s bathroom offers coziness. It’s a squatter toilet, but that’s not the problem. It’s all the ice surrounding it! Talk about slippery. Poor Tiffany has been keeping her phone in a wool sock to protect it from the cold; unfortunately, it fell out of her pocket while in the bathroom and it fell at the “hole” area. I think the whole lodge knew how disgusted she was by this. Needless to say, she threw the sock away while thanking her lucky stars that the phone was covered when it fell.

I was able to see Ann-Marie when I made it to the lodge. She looked much better than the last time we saw her. Yesterday, she hiked and stayed in Pheriche. She also visited the local clinic. The moment I saw her, I dug out the rock I picked up for her at base camp. I think she appreciated the thought.

At dinner, Sherry (the amazing chef) made us a cake! This is the third cake we’ve had on this trip. I’m starting to like this. I am amazed at what he can do at such a high altitude with limited kitchen supplies.

I took the time to discuss possible options with Amy and Eric in case my knee is worse tomorrow. It may be possible for me to take a horse. I could also take a helicopter. To be honest, though, I’d rather ride a horse than a helicopter because it’s cheaper. I overheard someone saying that Christopher had to agree to pay like $3000 because he had to agree to a stay in hospital once he got to Kathmandu. I can’t afford that! And I would feel bad asking my parents for the money since they just paid that amount in July for my dog’s MRI (don’t ask…the important thing is that the dog is fine now). I have Global Rescue in case I need an evacuation but that’s really for life threatening emergencies. Eric says that I could always hope my blister (he’s been treating it for me) gets infected (apparently that could be life threatening) or perhaps I could get impaled by a yak. I told him that the yak impalement seems a bit drastic but I would keep it in mind.

Lobuche to Gorek Shep to EBC!! Worth it all!

November 12, 2013

Today (11/12/13—which will make for a nice tattooed date when I get the EBC tattoo) we started our hike at Lobuche. During the night, it got pretty chilly and I thankfully only had to use the bathroom once (again, those bathrooms are death traps!). Upon waking up, the first thing I noticed was the fact that I no longer had a headache. I felt great. The second thing I noticed was the fact that today was the day we would be hiking to EBC.

As we were getting ready to go down for breakfast, I noticed some activity coming from Ann-Marie’s room (she was across the hall from Tiffany and me). Eric and Amy were both going into her room. At breakfast, we learned that due to her persistent headache and the fact it was getting slightly worse the higher we climbed, she would be going back down to Pheriche instead of continuing on with us. We would see her in Dingboche when we go there tomorrow (we’re at Lobuche again tonight). When we found out about Ann-Marie, I have to say I had mixed feelings. I know it’s got to be heart-breaking to make it this far only to be told you have to turn back. But then again, this is health related, so is there really a question? I don’t know what I would do if I was in that situation. A lot of us were upset upon learning she would be going back and not joining us at EBC.

Map Time at Lobuche

Before getting to EBC, we had to hike to Gorek Shep for lunch first. Gorek Shep is just under 17,000feet while EBC is at 17,585feet. I flew to Gorek Shep. I did pretty well holding my bag for almost the entire way and then it was carried for me. The terrain was rocky and icy in some spots and snow surrounded us. My left knee started to hurt a little (it actually started hurting yesterday a smidge), but I wasn’t going to let it bother me seeing as I was so so so close to EBC. I’ll have to admit, I had to pee along the way, so did Tanya and Tiffany. The girls found a nice rock and told the guys to turn around (and like gentlemen, they did). It was the first time I peed in snow and I know this sounds crazy but it was an exciting moment in my life. Unfortunately, it probably wasn’t so exciting for the local walking pass us at the time. In all fairness, he wasn’t in view when we first dropped our pants. Soon, we made it to Gorek Shep and we all piled into the lodge, full of anticipation. I don’t even remember what we ate for lunch I was so excited.

A nice smooth break from the usual rough terrain.

We were instructed to bundle up thanks to the strong winds and cold temperatures. Tomas led the pack, often going ahead of us. I’m sure he was like the rest of us, battling our own demons and reasons as to why we were doing this hike. But Tiffany, Tanya, and I were relatively close to each other. My pack was carried for me—I don’t think that was ever a question—and Tiffany’s pack was also carried for her. Tanya, who I should nickname the Beast, carried hers as she has been doing the entire trip (How does she do it?).

Hiking to EBC

Almost there!

Khumbu Glacier

WE MADE IT!!

The trail was full of hikers coming back from base camp. We also passed a lot of people struggling to make to base camp. The closer I got, the more excited I got. My heart was pounding—not from the lack of oxygen (or should I be correct and say the pressure from the altitude?) or exhaustion. I was running on pure adrenaline. The trail was getting icier and rockier the further we went. We crossed some rocks, pushed past some people (that’s right, I was actually faster than someone). Then, over a little hill, there it was: a marker identifying Everest Base Camp. In all actuality, it was just a pile of rocks, but symbolically it was so much more.

My eyes started to tear up as Mingma offered to take my picture at the marker. I took about five photos between my camera and phone—well, Mingma took the photos. Then I moved over so Tanya could have her moment as well. I went to sit down for a moment to take it all in and pulled out my phone to call the two most important people in my life, my parents. Our conversation was short because of the temperature. It had to be below zero. I was wearing about five or six layers and I was cold. As I put my phone away (in my sports bra to keep it warm—don’t judge), I picked up about 7 rocks. I plan on giving one to my nephew (Wesley), my parents, keep one for myself, my aunt and uncle helping out my parents while I’m away, my BFF and cousin (Carrie), an extra just in case, and one for Ann-Marie. Finally, Mingma came over to where Tiffany and I sat. He asked if we were ready to leave and head back to Gorek Shep. The sun would be setting soon and I didn’t want to be caught on that terrain in the dark.

Proof I made it to EBC!

As we were leaving, we saw the rest of our group make it up. I looked for Amy but I found out later she had walked back to the lodge with Francois since he decided not to hike all the way to EBC (he had been here before and decided to head back). As we walked back—Tiffany, Tanya, and I—we saw a couple of people slip. One gentleman slipped on ice and went over some rocks but he was able to get up and get moving eventually. Another man was in a hurry and caused a mini rock slide along the path so we had to meander our way down very carefully.

Before we knew it, we waltzed (I felt like I was floating on air) into the lodge to our table for some hot cocoa. Francois was sitting there and made Tiffany and me some crackers with peanut butter. Amy joined us and we hugged. I got all misty during the moment because I felt like she had been with me every step of the way, believing in me when I came so extremely close (mere millimeters away) to giving up on myself. She pushed me and never allowed me to quit. She was even teary eyed as she told me how proud she was of me. It is a moment I will never forget. I will always be eternally grateful to Amy for what she has done for me on this trip.

As the night wears down and I try to get ready to turn off the headlamp, I can’t help the smile on my face. I’m proud of myself. I can hardly believe that after four years of struggling with this stupid autoimmune disease, I made it to EBC. Last year, I thought this sort of thing was over for me. And look. Look at what I did today…the past few days. The whole thing inspires me. I can’t wait to get home to share this with everyone…the ups, downs…every step, groan, laugh, tear…everything.

Tomorrow, we start heading back down and it has suddenly hit me that I’ll be leaving Nepal in a week. I’ll try not to think about it for now and will just enjoy every moment.

V for VICTORY!

Pheriche to Lobuche…Almost there!

November 11, 2013

My day wasn’t tough until I got here, in Lobuche.

The hike was fine. We gained about 2,000feet in altitude and I am feeling it. Before I forget, I want it to be known that I did carry my pack the ENTIRE way today.

It definitely got colder the higher we climbed and the patches of snow got bigger.

Look at the ice!

The path started out rocky and hilly. We crossed a small bridge about half way through the day’s hike. Afterwards, we had a picnic lunch among the rocks and snow. All during lunch, we were glancing at the path we would take after eating. It was up.

And up we go…again.

Chris taking a lunch break.

Picnic Lunch

Going up, Ann-Marie stayed in the back with me. At one point, though, her head just pounded. Amy told me to go on, sending Sonam with me, while she and Erik took care of her. She did make it to Lobuche and I was glad to see her walk through the lodge door when she did arrive. I know she’s been struggling because of the headache. It’s tough when you’re dealing with altitude. You want to go on so badly, but sometimes you can’t because your body just won’t let you. I would hate for Ann-Marie not to make it to EBC. I’ve gotten to know her and she’s a lovely person. I hope she gets better.

The hike up was worth it, though. All along the top were chortens, or memorials, for climbers and sherpas who perished while climbing in the Himalayas. As weird as this sounds, I could feel the spirits of the fallen. I could hear them…whispering in the wind and singing in the flapping of the prayer flags. It was strangely peaceful as I walked around. One thing I noticed was that quite a few of the deceased died on the way down after successfully summiting. The memorial really does put things a bit more into perspective. As I was standing there, I said a small prayer to myself—thanking God that I had made it so far without any problems and thanking Him for all I’ve been blessed with.

A chorten, or memorial

I was thrilled to get to the lodge in Lobuche. By the time we got to the room, my head was pounding. I hadn’t had a headache like this in forever! After getting to our room and setting up our bags, Tiffany headed down for tea. Me? I lay down for just a second before Mingma came to fetch me since I had not made it down yet. I crawled out of bed, went to the bathroom (which was really a death trap with all the frozen ice on the floor), and plunked down at the table. Today, they had put out some ginger tea so I went with that instead of the usual hot chocolate. It helped my headache a little until the drapes were pulled back and the setting sun blared into my eyes. The pounding started again so I moved to the bench next to the window so the sun wasn’t in my eyes. I socialized a little, but it was hard. Amy let me put my head in her lap and that lasted for a few minutes. I kept it plain at dinner because I thought it would help the head. During the medical checks, my vitals were all good so I’m sure by the morning, my head will be fine. My head has no choice but to be fine because tomorrow we’re scheduled to hike to Everest Base Camp tomorrow!

The lodge in Lobuche

But for now, I’m turning the lights off and going to sleep this headache away!

Tengboche to Pheriche (I’m finally starting to get the hang of this!)

November 9 & 10, 2013

We started early yesterday. As I started walking, I went to feel for my red thread from the other night (when we had an audience with the third highest ranking Lama). I figured it would be safe since it was tied. Unfortunately, I was wrong. It wasn’t around my neck. I was upset about losing the thread-not because of the thread itself, but because of the significance of the thread and the memory it held to me.

Shortly after we begin walking, we veered off the path towards an old stone structure. We were taken inside a courtyard and instructed to take off our shoes. We were shown into another ritual room where Buddhist nuns were chanting. It was beautiful. Come to find out, this was Dewoche Nunnery, the first Buddhist nunnery. As I sat among my fellow trekkers (there was no one else in the room besides us and the nuns), I glanced down to look at my camera for something; out of the corner of my eye, I spotted something red hanging down from one side of my neck. It was my red thread!! The one I thought I lost. I quickly retied it—more tightly this time—and continued to relax to the sounds of the chanting.

Eventually, we had to move on. I saw a hill coming so I instinctively moved to the back. It’s just second nature to me now. The only time it backfires on me is when a fellow trekker stops to take a picture and I pass him. I feel bad that they get stuck behind me, but at this point, they should really know what to expect when letting me pass.

The trail

Letting a yak pass

I think yesterday was one of my favorite lunches: chickpeas (yummy), a spicy soup made from some sort of greens (don’t tell my mom because I won’t eat greens at home when she cooks them), potato salad, grilled cheese (a favorite classic), and for the first (and last) time, I tried cous cous. I tried not to eat too much. I don’t want to get any stomach issues (I’ve heard rumors that some are starting to suffer from stomach ailments); besides, I’m not used to eating this many calories at home! I need to watch it!

Once we got back on the trail, I started to struggle again. BUT I didn’t let it bother me this time. Amy stayed with me, however Ann-Marie (who is really just a delight to have in this group) joined us in the back. She’s been suffering from a slight headache since Namche (I think). She’s been advised to take it slow. To be honest, it was nice to have some company back there. Maybe she’ll stay back there when we hike to Lobuche too (not that I wish for her to suffer from a headache again). It wasn’t too long before I gave my bag away—I’m seriously considering a bag burning ceremony when I get home. Tarik was kind enough to be the one to suffer with it for the rest of today.

When we got close to the town of Pheriche, the trail evened out. Patches of snow were scattered about, but the trail was easy. I was even able to catch up with some of the other trekkers! What a feeling to be actually walking in with people!

The lodge is quite nice. Well, the gathering room is at least. The rest of the lodge is freezing!!! There’s a fireplace in the center of the gathering room and it makes it all nice and toasty. The moment you leave the room and walk through the swing door, the cold slaps you in the face. Our room has a single bed and a double bed, plus a private bathroom. Well, it has a toilet. There’ s no light in the bathroom, but it does have a nice window that looks out onto a field—I even saw a yak grazing out there earlier. I’m sleeping in the double bed while Tiffany takes the single. In an attempt to solve the space issue (the issue being that these lodge rooms are usually tiny), I shared the bed with our two duffel bags. It’s not too bad. I still have plenty of room to snuggle in my sleeping bag.

Last night was Mingma’s birthday. As a group, we came up with a plan. Ann-Marie just happened to have some balloons, oddly enough, so Tanya and I blew four or five up and then hid them under our jackets. Chris had some spare paper and a Sharpie so we made a card that all the team members could sign. Tanya and I then purchased a candy bar from the lodge to accompany the card. After we ate our dinner, the boys brought in a cake. Alain stood up and got the room singing Happy Birthday while the balloons came out! I think Mingma was touched by our spontaneous celebration. I, personally, thought it felt good to finally be bringing a smile to his face after all the help he’s given me on this trip…so far (because let’s face it, I’m sure I’ll need tons more help before this trip is over).

Last night was cold!!! I think it got down to about 25F. That’s cold, folks. The temperature gauge doesn’t even go down that far in Tampa, Florida. Here is the list of what I slept in so you have a better idea of how cold I was: sock liners, wool socks, long underwear, mittens, down jacket, two thermal shirts, fleece pants, and a hat. Now, I’ll admit, some of the layers came off during the night, but I tell ya, this has been the coldest night yet.

This morning, we went for an acclimatization hike. Behind the lodge, there is a ridge. That was where we were heading: the top of the ridge. I was daypack free this time…because Nima took it even before we left. I don’t think I would have taken the stupid thing at all if I had known we wouldn’t really need it (all I needed was a water bottle really). The hike up wasn’t too bad compared to some of the inclines I’ve encountered on this trip.

Hiking to the ridge

href=”https://mountainsworththevalleys.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/pb090095.jpg”> View of Pheriche from the ridge[/caption]

View of Dingboche from the ridge

The ridge is between two villages: Pheriche (where we were currently staying) and Dingboche (we’ll be staying there in a few days). The towns look relatively small from this height, a scattering of buildings here and there for the most part. Also on the ridge were markers with prayer flags. I still think the prayer flags flittering in the wind is one of the most enchanting sights. I can’t wait to put up the flags I bought outside my window—I hope it emits the same feeling back home!

Top of the ridge

Our hike was only a couple of hours long, but enough.

Tonight, before dinner, Erik, Amy, and Mingma showed us a demonstration of the portable altitude chamber they carry on the trek. This is in case someone has major issues with altitude and needs immediate evacuation. Unfortunately, I lost our room key and was frantically searching for it so I was late to the demo.

Portable Altitude Chamber

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Tomorrow we hike to Lobuche. In two days, we’re scheduled to hike to EBC. I can’t believe that we’re so close! I really think I may do this! As I look out the window now, even though it’s dark, I shiver with anticipation of the whole thing. A couple of days ago, I questioned my decision in coming here. I considered turning back and quitting. But now? I know that there’s a very good chance I’ll make it.

Khumjung to Tengboche…A Blessing

Tengboche

November 8, 2013
What a wonderful day! That’s right, folks, you read that right. I had a great day! Not one breakdown!

The hike really wasn’t that bad today. We gained just over 1,000feet in altitude. It was long, steady, and I told myself to accept the fact that I’d be slow and probably would need help of some kind. I think the moment I accepted that, I was good to go. Sonam ended up carrying my daypack for two-thirds of the way and Mingma stuck with us. Sure, I’d reach the rest of the group when they’d been resting for about five minutes so my breaks were normally half the time of the others, but I was cool with that. I just couldn’t allow myself to think about it or else I’d psych myself out like yesterday.

Once we arrived at Tengboche, the views were spectacular! We’re talking a 360 view. Outside our room at the lodge, Tiffany and I had a perfect view of Everest, Lhotse, and Lhotse Shar.

After enjoying some popcorn and hot chocolate, it was time to visit the Tengboche Monastery. We were to have an audience with the third highest ranking lama. It took five minutes to reach the monastery. Mingma’s cousin took us in and directed us to a small courtyard. As we took our shoes and hats off, Mingma and his cousin brought out kata scarves for us and they folded the scarves for us.

The directions were simple: offer the folded kata to the Lama with a monetary offering. He would take it and then return the blessing to us.

Dave went in first and then I followed him. I didn’t want to be the first person because I didn’t want to mess up! I figured I could just do what he did. After Dave left and was directed to a side bench in the room, I walked up to the Lama. I bowed as I offered the kata scarf. He returned it to me by draping it over my neck and adding a red thread with it. I then went over to sit with Dave. Once we were all finished with our offerings, we were allowed to ask respectful questions while Mingma translated for us. I was in awe of the tranquility the room offered. I don’t think the group has ever been so quiet . We learned that Buddhism is more of a philosophical approach to life instead of it being just a religion. The audience with the Lama was short, but he graciously took a group photo with us—one I’ll cherish.

The group with the Lama

Upon leaving the Lama’s receiving room, we put our shoes back on for a brief walk to the main building. The shoes went off again and a most magical moment occurred. We entered and were shown to the side. Inside, Buddhist monks chanted and went about their rituals. The room was crowded with onlookers, curious people, and other trekkers wanting a glimpse into this life that’s so different than ours. We were instructed to take a seat on the floor. Some of the floor was covered in thick rugs. I took a seat on the freezing wood floor, however the man next to me (who I think was a local) was sitting on a rug. He leaned over and told me to take his seat while he went to stand in the back. I was touched by this small form of generosity…my toosh was also grateful since the room was so cold. I closed my eyes as the chanting offered a relaxing, beautiful vibrating. The whole experience was calming.

Tengboche Monastery

Upon leaving the monastery, the sun was beginning to set and the peaks gleamed like fire.

After being blessed by the Lama

That night, after dinner, some of us decided to step outside to view the stars. I remember when I was climbing Kilimanjaro, I looked up at the sky when we were camping at Shira. The sky was filled with a billion stars. Even at home, now, I look up at the sky, hoping to see the same. Of course, I don’t. I haven’t found anything that compared to that sky I saw at Shira…until now. The night sky over Everest twinkled. Matt even pointed out the Milky Way to me. I wish I could capture the image on film, but even film wouldn’t be able to evoke the same feeling of wonder and awe as this sky does in person.

I have learned a major lesson. I will admit, Mingma gave us this advice on day one but I found it difficult to follow. As you’re walking, don’t look up where you are headed. Rather, look back at where you’ve been and what you’ve accomplished so far. In the beginning—which seems like such a long time ago even though it’s really only been a few days—I kept looking up the hills that I still had to walk and struggle up. Maybe that’s why I had such a terrible time with it all and got frustrated. If I had only looked at what I’d already accomplished and walked up, perhaps I would have had an easier time mentally. This can be said in life too. We’re always so busy looking at what tomorrow will bring that we forget to enjoy the moment and reflect on yesterday. I vow to stop grimacing at the trail ahead and instead begin to give myself a POB (pat-on-the-back—What can I say? I’m a teacher.) for what I’ve already been able to do.